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Crested Geckos are a species of gecko native to Southern New Caledonia, and are actually being considered for protected status by the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna. They were thought to be extinct, but were rediscovered in 1994.

Now, crested geckos are bred in and for captivity, with many people in the reptile community owning them. They are a very beloved species due to their goofy nature, personable faces, and overall ease of care. They are fairly simple reptiles to own, but you should keep in mind that they are not as fond of being handled as a bearded dragon or a leopard gecko might be. I personally do not handle my crested gecko often, as it only seems to disturb him. Crested geckos are “beginner friendly” in my opinion, but should be researched just as intently as a more complex reptile.

Life Span & Diet

Crested Geckos have not been in captivity long enough to fully determine a life span, however they have been kept for 15-20 years or even more with proper care.

Crested Geckos have a diet of prepared powdered fruit diets, supplemented calcium and occasional insects for variety in their diet. There are popular brands for powdered fruit diets such as Repashy and Pangea that have both been proven to supply the gecko with the correct nutrition they need to remain healthy. These powdered diets can be their entire diet and technically they don’t need to have any bugs to be healthy. However, some crested geckos love the variety of baby dubia roaches or baby crickets to be included in their diet. My crested gecko though, does not like bugs and actually refuses to eat them. If your crested gecko is one of the around 50% that refuses bugs, know that it is common and nothing to be concerned about. As long as they continue to eat their powder diets and are not losing weight, I honestly wouldn’t be worried. So, crested geckos can definitely be in good health without bugs.

Good bug options include the following:

small crickets
small dubia roaches
small hornworms
silkworms
black soldier fly larvae

For the first little while, I used the Pangea Growth & Breeding mix with another flavor of Pangea to promote his growth, as I was struggling to get him to gain weight. So I do recommend that if you have a baby gecko who refuses bugs!

I also have a crested gecko Amazon page that is linked here that has all of the Pangea flavors and more in case you need a place to shop!

Enclosure & Lighting/Temperature Requirements

LIGHTING

Crested geckos prefer temperatures around 72 to 80 degrees and you don’t want to have them in a room that exceeds 80 degrees for too long, as that is too hot for them. It can become fatal if they are exposed to too hot environments for a long period of time.

If you plan on keeping your crested gecko in a colder room, you can buy a low-wattage ceramic heat emitter to set on top of the screen directed at a specific spot of the enclosure. A heat mat on one side of the enclosure can also be an option. For me personally, my room is not cold and I don’t need any external heat sources to keep the temperatures where they need to be.

Other lighting sources though, in my opinion are required for keeping a healthy crested gecko. Many keepers will say that UVB is not required, that it is just a good addition. If additional lighting provides a reptile with a better quality of life, than it will always be my standpoint to say that it is required for great husbandry. Additionally, if they are not supplemented with Vitamin D3 in their diet, proper UVB becomes even more necessary.

Crested geckos benefit from the use of a low percentage of UV. It can increase their appetite, can make them more active, and can help them differentiate the difference between time of day. Crested geckos are crepuscular, meaning that they have spurts of activity and inactivity during various times. They are mostly active at twilight periods such as dawn and dusk. So, having a UV light in the enclosure can help them to know what time of day it is.

Constant UV exposure is not a good thing for crested geckos, as it can damage their eye sight. It should only be left on for around six hours, and you should have a low percentage of UV. For example, for my crested gecko I use Arcadia’s Shade Dweller line which varies from 2-4% to 6% UVB options. Too much UV can harm their eyesight, as they do not have the ability to sun-shield their eyes. So if you choose to use UVB for the many benefits it can have, only use low wattage bulbs and only leave them on for 6-8 hours of the daytime.

Zen Habitats recently came out with a tool that helps keepers find a UVB product specifically for the species they keep, so this may help you! Check it out by clicking here! UVB can be so confusing, so this helps take away the question of what percentage of UV you need.

Any lighting I have is controlled by a Wyze timer in order to keep lighting consistent. I also usually change the times during the summer or winter to reflect seasons as much as I can. You can purchase one of the timers here!

ENCLOSURE

This enclosure above is my 2x2x2 enclosure by Zen Habitats and is a fantastic option for crested geckos. I personally love it because it provides the minimum required amount of space for people with limited space in their homes. I always would recommend providing more space if you can, as I will when I have more space in my home.

For hatchlings less than 12g, the recommended size is 12x12x12 inches. For juveniles and adults, an 18x18x36 inch enclosure is a great size.

The key to a crested gecko enclosure is to have it be taller rather than longer. For example, an enclosure that you would house a bearded dragon in, is not one that you would house a crested gecko in. Crested geckos are an arboreal species, meaning that they live in trees or shrubs primarily. Therefore, a taller enclosure is necessary.

photo from https://www.reptileadvisor.com/crested-gecko-habitat/

Larger enclosures are great but always be mindful in making sure the enclosure is covered, secure, and the reptile is able to find their food. Enclosures can absolutely be too large if not done correctly. Take recommendations to your reptile personally and if you notice that they are not eating their food, they may potentially need a downgrade until they are eating and gaining weight reliably. Recommendations do not fit every reptile and some may need special considerations and circumstances.

With the consideration of the size of the enclosure, do be sure to fill the enclosure with branches, foliage, bushes, and many hiding places. Crested geckos are not a species that are observed out in the open, usually, so it is best to provide their space with plenty of coverage so that they feel safe.

Bring branches and leaves from the top, bottom, and the sides. Lots of areas to climb on and hide will give your crested gecko a sense of security. Of course you need to leave some open space as well, but a lot of foliage is important.

Substrate & Going Bioactive

There are many different substrates that you can use for your crested gecko enclosure. I personally gravitate toward the more natura substrates so I am able to create a bioactive enclosure if I want.

Options for a more natural substrate can be a DIY tropical mixture (60% organic topsoil, 40% coconut fiber), Zoo Med Reptisoil, Josh’s Frogs Tropical BioBedding, or The Bio Dude Terra Fauna.

Many keepers do not keep their reptiles on loose substrate due to the concern of it causing impaction, however this is an outdated concern. Reptiles commonly eat substrate due to an under-stimulating environment (Warwick et. al 2013), dehydration (Lock, 2023), inadequate vitamin supplementation, and illness (Richter 2017). Many reptiles do better on loose substrate than a sterile substrate, due to the ability to exhibit their natural behaviors and have a substrate that supports their humidity needs.

I firmly believe that without a loose substrate for crested geckos, it may not be possibly to maintain their humidity needs. Crested geckos need a humidity percentage at 60-80%, maintained via daily misting. It is best to let the enclosure dry up to about 50% before misting again, since constant moisture can promote mold.

If you are a new keeper and are uncomfortable with loose substrate for now, you can use paper towel. Never use reptile carpet, as it harbors bacteria and can rip out nails. I also would not recommend a wood chip substrate since it can be an impaction risk on its own.

Handling and Temperament

Crested geckos seem to be one of the friendliest reptiles that you could bring home. However, I will say that they are not an incredibly handleable species, as they tend to be jumpy and do not sit in one place very long at all. Keeping a crested gecko will likely not involve much handling and are more of a “display species”.

When you bring your crested gecko home, I would recommend leaving them alone for the first couple of weeks. Allow them to get used to their enclosure, feel comfortable enough to find their food and eat, and overall lessen the stress of handling in a new environment. Once those couple of weeks are over, start by spending time around the enclosure, cleaning it with the gecko inside, and overall allowing the gecko to see you as not a threat. Then, keep handling sessions very short – 5-10 minutes at a time to ease them into being handled.

Keep in mind as with any reptile, do not pinch them or grab them too harshly. This can make handling very uncomfortable for them, stressing them out and maybe even giving you a little bite to let you know of it.

Crested geckos in particular can drop their tails when they feel threatened or are extremely stressed out. It is a defense mechanism for them and allows them to distract their predators while their tail is on the ground flopping around. Unlike leopard geckos, their tails cannot and will not grow back. They will forever be what we call “frog butts”.

Conclusion

Crested geckos are honestly as joy to have and are one of my favorite reptiles to keep. They are one of the best species to have when creating bioactive enclosures as well. If you’re looking to get a crested gecko in the future, it is a great choice for a beginner reptile owner, or an experienced one.

Thank you for checking out my crested gecko care guide – I hope it helps you in your decision to purchase one, or change some care for your current crested gecko! If you have any questions, please feel free to DM my Instagram and ask!

A Complete Crested Gecko Care Guide – 2024